Having spent the full day in the ruins of Jerash, other than going to Petra, it’d be hard for any other location to live up in terms of its grandiosity.  But as our last full day in Amman, we’re not about to miss out on what might be the most historic location in the city…not to mention one of its best views!

Located near the center of the city, the citadel (Jebel al-Qala’a) serves as a proverbial fossil record of human existence in the region. The location of this site isn’t arbitrary either as it sits atop one of the highest points in the city at roughly 850m (2788 feet).

As you enter the site, you can tell that Amman takes great pride in the history here. Understandably so once you begin to realize just how long humans have occupied this area of the world.

Amman has been an inhabited region as far back as 7250 BC.  Just thinking about this boggles the mind.  Put another way, humans have cultivated this location nearly 5000 years prior to the Pyramids at Giza being built! In fact, as of our visit today December 25, 2019, we are living closer to the building of the Pyramids than those original settlers!

From the moment you walk in, you’re treated to marble slabs adorned with the historical timeline of not only the site but the city itself.  Amman has had many names throughout time and has been a near rollercoaster in terms of its importance/occupation (feel free to click any to get a more legibly sized image).

Since the initial occupation during the Neolithic period, this site has been ruled by the Egyptians, the Greeks and Romans, and the Umayyads during the Islamic era, to name a few.  From there, Amman became a relative ghost town when it was absorbed into the Ottoman Empire.  It wasn’t fully occupied again until 1878, nearly 500 years later!

So, it goes without saying that every surface we’re looking at has a story to tell.

As we move further into the site, the first thing we realize is that this is a well-paved, easy stroll (aside from it being mostly uphill to start).  This is definitely a location any tourist can and should visit!

As you look up the path, you can’t help but have your eyes drawn to the remnants of the once-proud temple of Hercules (pictured at the top). 

Now just a façade of two large, mostly intact pillars, with a handful of others in various states of dilapidation, we can only picture what this place may have looked like in its glory.

There’s literature and markers adorned along the trail at various sites for anyone inclined to read up on the history of the location.  However, you can tell most tourists are here to take in the views.

As we near the temple, it’s remarkable just how large it really is!

When it comes to Greco Roman architecture, we really haven’t visited much ourselves.  We had a quick tease when we toured Northern Italy a few years back, but it wasn’t until today when we wandered around Jerash and now get to see the Citadel, that it really is beginning to sink in just how grandiose these buildings must have looked!  Like most things worth seeing, pictures really don’t do this justice.

Despite the relative shambles that these sites remain in today, there’s definitely still a sense of awe that I’m happy hasn’t evaporated yet. Maybe the sense of wonder will wear off when we inevitably visit Rome or Greece, but for now, it’s a welcome feeling!

Not to mention, our minds are a powerful tool to fill in the missing pieces and imagine what the full building might have been.

Having grown up in Chicago, large buildings are a bit of a norm when I think of architecture.  However, there’s something to be said for these massive, stone edifices that today’s architecture can’t quite embody.  What’s even better is that Jordan allows you to walk right up and even into the temple so you can really get a feel for how large these are! To illustrate, just look at how the gent below is truly dwarfed.

As we meander along the North side of the temple, there’s an odd little drop off directly across the path.  The placard informs us that it’s a cave dating back to the Bronze Age (~2250 BC). 

While this is definitely not going to be the highlight of a trip to Jordan, it’s always moving to stand in the same spot another human had some 4000+ years ago.

As the cave is really just a hole in the rock, there’s no real reason to spend too much time in here.

Back outside as we walk around the temple, we come across a number of protected areas that are best described as relic graveyards.

There are various remnants adorned with Greco/Roman carvings and other pieces that were clearly part of the larger structure that once stood here.  There’s no real story behind any of them until you get to what appears to be a former courtyard of sorts on the West end of the Temple of Hercules.

The immediate highlight of this section is the three fingers that appear to be clawing their way out of the soil.  Perhaps this is where the namesake of this temple once stood, high atop the city?

Sadly, while the mighty Hercules could conquer the 12 labors, it appears he too is no match for father time and mother nature.  Various earthquakes over the years have reduced him to three digits and an elbow.

Jordan has also placed its archaeological museum here at the Citadel.  Inside, there are statues, pottery, tools, mummies, and more that have been recovered around the area over the millennia.

There’s far too much for us to go into detail with, but the museum is set up in chronological order allowing visitors to stroll through time. (Note: There are some skeletons on display, but out of respect, we won’t post any photos of those).

Of particular importance is the two-headed Ain Ghazal statue.  Discovered a few kilometers from the citadel, this statue is dated back to the Neolithic period in approximately 6500 BC!

Back outside and heading towards the back end of the Citadel, you begin to enter what they call the Umayyad Precinct.

For any history buffs out there, the Umayyad were one of the 4 major caliphates to come after the death of Muhammad.  While most tourists are probably coming here to see the Temple of Hercules, you’d be doing yourself a disservice not to check out this gem as well!

Back here are the remnants of the Umayyad Palace.  Sadly, the majority of it has been destroyed by earthquakes as well, but the entire section is open to wander about the remaining walls and walkways that would have led to the various rooms.

The people of Jordan have also done a wonderful job of restoring the main dome room of the palace itself.  A great spot to observe some Islamic architecture and symmetry while also getting a little reprieve from the elements.  Again, I can’t help but imagine the opulence of these buildings when they fully stood!

Overall, the Amman Citadel wound up being a memorable spot in which to take in some of the histories of not only Amman but mankind.  The fact that humans have occupied this particular spot of the planet for nearly 9000 years really makes you feel small in the grand scheme of time.

However, it also reinforces the importance of the area as a place that was capable of sustaining life and providing protection. If you have the time to take a few hours, we certainly won’t talk you out of paying a visit here!

Until next time!

‘Twas the week before Christmas,

When we chose to fly,

All the way to India,

By way of Dubai;

Three flights, 11 time zones, and an entire calendar day later we arrived in New Delhi, from Denver!  After a brief mix-up with the shuttle services (we weren’t on the pickup list), we were able to grab a transfer to our hotel, shower, and snag a few hours of sleep – neither of us is overly great at sleeping on flights!

This day started early for a “vacation” and even earlier for a “honeymoon!” – but taking time to relax isn’t really our style!

We took the liberty of hiring a driver and guide ahead of time as we like having someone local to speak with and educate us when we travel. Our driver was set to pick us up at 6AM to start the day, but we knew the juice would be worth the squeeze.

Before heading out, we snagged a few baked goods from the hotel breakfast.  Let us just say, breakfast being available at 5:30 in the morning was about the best surprise we could have started this day with! Kudos to the Holiday Inn – New Delhi International Airport for the smorgasbord of options!

Danishes in hand, we met our driver and headed out to witness our 4th Wonder together!

Having been to India a decade earlier, I had an idea of the roughly 3 hour (132 mi / 212 km)  journey ahead of us.  What I wasn’t quite prepared for was what that 3 hour journey looks like during the winter!  In my prior trip, I had traveled during the height of the Indian summer, when the blistering temperatures and jet streams that bring the pending monsoon season makes for hazy days.  I had no idea that the Winter brings its own challenges in that smog and fog combine, creating a suffocating blanket everywhere you look!  There’s no hiding from the facts – you cannot ignore the scent and lightheadedness that comes from simply breathing.

With visibility limited to about three car lengths, our guide navigated the labyrinth of New Delhi like a champion! 

After leaving the city, it’s literally a breath of fresh…er air to see the state of Uttar Pradesh unfold in rolling plains, farmland, and the waning fog/smog.  When we often see photos of India, it’s usually limited to the cityscapes, but this truly is a diverse and beautiful country!

There are three gates to enter the Taj and each has its pros and cons, but one thing will be true regardless – there will be a lot of people.  I entered from the South gate 10 years ago and honestly can’t recall much of a difference in experience outside of there being more vendors at the South Gate.  

One of the beautiful things with having a guide is that he took care of tickets and navigating the crowds.  A second beautiful aspect is he was able to direct me to a safe place to store my tripod, for a few rupees, as they aren’t allowed within the site. Save yourself some time and headache and leave your tripods, drones, etc. behind!

——-

It’s a crazy thought, but up to this point, we still haven’t placed eyes on the Taj itself! 

No worries, you start to get an idea of the scale and grandiosity about 10 steps past the ticket gate.  It’s an odd realization when you first see the dome of the Taj peak into view above the red sandstone perimeter around the gardens.  At first, it doesn’t look real, and not in the “I can’t believe I’m here” sense.  The way the marble contrasts with the blue sky almost makes it look like someone poorly photoshopped it into the background!  This illusion is magnified by the shroud of haze still lingering in the air, giving this monumental structure a sense of coyness.

Accentuating this contrast is the stark difference that is the Main Gate.  Emblazoned with pietra dura (stonework using cut, fit, and highly polished stone to create images), Arabic calligraphy, and surreal symmetry this impressive display of craftmanship certainly whets the appetite for the main course to come! 

After a history presentation from our guide, we enter the gate.  As you move towards the garden, another visual phenomenon takes place as the shadows within the gate focus your gaze on the Taj Mahal, perfectly aligned in the middle of its archway!

Don’t feel bad – like everyone else, you’re probably going to stop and snap a few photos.

As we emerge from the archway, we’re treated with our first look at the main course.  It’s a stark contrast to the grounds outside the walls to see the meticulously manicured lawns, shrubs, and flora before us.  Immediately we’re filled with a sense of ease despite the bustling crowds and endless shutters firing on the cameras surrounding us.  Maybe we’re sappy, but we glanced at each other and could only smile.  Majestic, awesome, wow, humbling…there really aren’t words to say that hasn’t already been said as you initially soak everything in.

Meandering through the pathways of the garden, we continue digesting the history from our guide and snapping more photos as every angle makes the Taj look new again.   

Situated to the West of the Taj is an operating mosque;  to the East is its jawab, which exists solely to provide symmetry to the garden layout.

Encompassing the Taj are four symmetrical minarets.  Each minaret is built at a slight outward slant to allow them to fall away from the tomb itself in the event of an earthquake or other cause.  As we stand in front of the mosque, we quickly realize that even from the side, you’d never know you weren’t looking at the primary entrance to the tomb!  The towering archway and smaller flanking arches once again are mirror images of the view from the front!

It’s worth noting that as you climb the ramps to the actual site from the garden, shoe covers are now required in an effort to preserve the magnificent craftmanship that our feet now grace.  

Having been built for his favorite of six wives, Mumtaz Mahal,  Shah Jahān began the construction of the Taj Mahal in 1632 and construction of the entire complex wouldn’t complete for 22 years!  Some 20,000 workers were involved to complete the endeavor.  As Darcey routinely reminds me from the moment we entered this site, “I know her expectations now!”

I’ve got my work cut out for me because these archways alone are about 4x taller than our house!

As a show of respect, no photos are allowed inside the mausoleum itself.

To help describe what’s inside, we’ll try and paint a picture for you.  The ceilings are as vaulted as the massive archways in the photo above.  Directly in the center is the tomb of Mumtaz.  Situated directly next to the tomb, and serving as the only item not symmetrically placed, is the tomb of Shah Jahān (who was placed here by his son). 

Surrounding these tombs is a barrier of white marble, maintaining a border of the pietra dura seen throughout the building, but enhanced with a magnificent filigree.  We wish we could share a photo of the craftsmanship on display here (a quick internet search can give you an example if you wish). 

We aren’t certain if it’s true, as it was quite noisy with tourists, but the interior design of this mausoleum also has an acoustic effect that will echo a single note exactly 5 times and last 28 seconds.  A quest for another visit perhaps…

Working our way out, we couldn’t help but head to the center of the garden to take the prototypical shot that we all know of this site.  You can’t come all this way and not look at it from this view.  Unfortunately for us, the fountains were on today, so we didn’t get the coveted mirror shot in the pool, but the result is no less fantastic and won’t leave you wanting!

The Taj Mahal is certainly a sight to behold.  The sheer magnitude of this colossal tribute left us in awe!  The artistry and craftmanship rival anything we’ve had the privilege to lay eyes on.  This is one location that truly did not disappoint. 

The only downside is Darcey has a new standard for our relationship!

Stay curious! See you Around!

-Darcey & Justin