‘Twas the week before Christmas,

When we chose to fly,

All the way to India,

By way of Dubai;

Three flights, 11 time zones, and an entire calendar day later we arrived in New Delhi, from Denver!  After a brief mix-up with the shuttle services (we weren’t on the pickup list), we were able to grab a transfer to our hotel, shower, and snag a few hours of sleep – neither of us is overly great at sleeping on flights!

This day started early for a “vacation” and even earlier for a “honeymoon!” – but taking time to relax isn’t really our style!

We took the liberty of hiring a driver and guide ahead of time as we like having someone local to speak with and educate us when we travel. Our driver was set to pick us up at 6AM to start the day, but we knew the juice would be worth the squeeze.

Before heading out, we snagged a few baked goods from the hotel breakfast.  Let us just say, breakfast being available at 5:30 in the morning was about the best surprise we could have started this day with! Kudos to the Holiday Inn – New Delhi International Airport for the smorgasbord of options!

Danishes in hand, we met our driver and headed out to witness our 4th Wonder together!

Having been to India a decade earlier, I had an idea of the roughly 3 hour (132 mi / 212 km)  journey ahead of us.  What I wasn’t quite prepared for was what that 3 hour journey looks like during the winter!  In my prior trip, I had traveled during the height of the Indian summer, when the blistering temperatures and jet streams that bring the pending monsoon season makes for hazy days.  I had no idea that the Winter brings its own challenges in that smog and fog combine, creating a suffocating blanket everywhere you look!  There’s no hiding from the facts – you cannot ignore the scent and lightheadedness that comes from simply breathing.

With visibility limited to about three car lengths, our guide navigated the labyrinth of New Delhi like a champion! 

After leaving the city, it’s literally a breath of fresh…er air to see the state of Uttar Pradesh unfold in rolling plains, farmland, and the waning fog/smog.  When we often see photos of India, it’s usually limited to the cityscapes, but this truly is a diverse and beautiful country!

There are three gates to enter the Taj and each has its pros and cons, but one thing will be true regardless – there will be a lot of people.  I entered from the South gate 10 years ago and honestly can’t recall much of a difference in experience outside of there being more vendors at the South Gate.  

One of the beautiful things with having a guide is that he took care of tickets and navigating the crowds.  A second beautiful aspect is he was able to direct me to a safe place to store my tripod, for a few rupees, as they aren’t allowed within the site. Save yourself some time and headache and leave your tripods, drones, etc. behind!

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It’s a crazy thought, but up to this point, we still haven’t placed eyes on the Taj itself! 

No worries, you start to get an idea of the scale and grandiosity about 10 steps past the ticket gate.  It’s an odd realization when you first see the dome of the Taj peak into view above the red sandstone perimeter around the gardens.  At first, it doesn’t look real, and not in the “I can’t believe I’m here” sense.  The way the marble contrasts with the blue sky almost makes it look like someone poorly photoshopped it into the background!  This illusion is magnified by the shroud of haze still lingering in the air, giving this monumental structure a sense of coyness.

Accentuating this contrast is the stark difference that is the Main Gate.  Emblazoned with pietra dura (stonework using cut, fit, and highly polished stone to create images), Arabic calligraphy, and surreal symmetry this impressive display of craftmanship certainly whets the appetite for the main course to come! 

After a history presentation from our guide, we enter the gate.  As you move towards the garden, another visual phenomenon takes place as the shadows within the gate focus your gaze on the Taj Mahal, perfectly aligned in the middle of its archway!

Don’t feel bad – like everyone else, you’re probably going to stop and snap a few photos.

As we emerge from the archway, we’re treated with our first look at the main course.  It’s a stark contrast to the grounds outside the walls to see the meticulously manicured lawns, shrubs, and flora before us.  Immediately we’re filled with a sense of ease despite the bustling crowds and endless shutters firing on the cameras surrounding us.  Maybe we’re sappy, but we glanced at each other and could only smile.  Majestic, awesome, wow, humbling…there really aren’t words to say that hasn’t already been said as you initially soak everything in.

Meandering through the pathways of the garden, we continue digesting the history from our guide and snapping more photos as every angle makes the Taj look new again.   

Situated to the West of the Taj is an operating mosque;  to the East is its jawab, which exists solely to provide symmetry to the garden layout.

Encompassing the Taj are four symmetrical minarets.  Each minaret is built at a slight outward slant to allow them to fall away from the tomb itself in the event of an earthquake or other cause.  As we stand in front of the mosque, we quickly realize that even from the side, you’d never know you weren’t looking at the primary entrance to the tomb!  The towering archway and smaller flanking arches once again are mirror images of the view from the front!

It’s worth noting that as you climb the ramps to the actual site from the garden, shoe covers are now required in an effort to preserve the magnificent craftmanship that our feet now grace.  

Having been built for his favorite of six wives, Mumtaz Mahal,  Shah Jahān began the construction of the Taj Mahal in 1632 and construction of the entire complex wouldn’t complete for 22 years!  Some 20,000 workers were involved to complete the endeavor.  As Darcey routinely reminds me from the moment we entered this site, “I know her expectations now!”

I’ve got my work cut out for me because these archways alone are about 4x taller than our house!

As a show of respect, no photos are allowed inside the mausoleum itself.

To help describe what’s inside, we’ll try and paint a picture for you.  The ceilings are as vaulted as the massive archways in the photo above.  Directly in the center is the tomb of Mumtaz.  Situated directly next to the tomb, and serving as the only item not symmetrically placed, is the tomb of Shah Jahān (who was placed here by his son). 

Surrounding these tombs is a barrier of white marble, maintaining a border of the pietra dura seen throughout the building, but enhanced with a magnificent filigree.  We wish we could share a photo of the craftsmanship on display here (a quick internet search can give you an example if you wish). 

We aren’t certain if it’s true, as it was quite noisy with tourists, but the interior design of this mausoleum also has an acoustic effect that will echo a single note exactly 5 times and last 28 seconds.  A quest for another visit perhaps…

Working our way out, we couldn’t help but head to the center of the garden to take the prototypical shot that we all know of this site.  You can’t come all this way and not look at it from this view.  Unfortunately for us, the fountains were on today, so we didn’t get the coveted mirror shot in the pool, but the result is no less fantastic and won’t leave you wanting!

The Taj Mahal is certainly a sight to behold.  The sheer magnitude of this colossal tribute left us in awe!  The artistry and craftmanship rival anything we’ve had the privilege to lay eyes on.  This is one location that truly did not disappoint. 

The only downside is Darcey has a new standard for our relationship!

Stay curious! See you Around!

-Darcey & Justin

Whether you loved or hated geography class growing up, there was one constant – students finding the places with “funny” names!  I don’t know about you, but at my school, it was mainly an odd obsession with body parts and functions.

A few classics include:

1. Anus, France  (Because even adult butt jokes still make people laugh)
2. Condom, France  (98% effective at getting a giggle)
3. Semens, France (What is going on in France?)
4. Zzyzx, California (thank you Fox Kids Saturday morning cartoons)
5. Ticklenaked Pond, Vermont (I mean, have you ever been tickled through your clothes?)
6. Batman, Turkey (coincidentally home to the Joker internet café and Robin Mobile)
7. Haut Sex Mountain, Switzerland (but right on the border with France…)

And finally, the crème de la crème –

Lake Titicaca, South America

Now I realize that many of these are immaturely “funny” because of their correlation to words in the English language, but let’s just roll with it!

From the first time I learned about South American geography, I made a pact with myself that I’d reach this fabled lake!

Located on the border between Peru and Bolivia, Lake Titicaca hales as the largest freshwater lake in South America (19th in the world and a little less than half the size of Lake Ontario, for comparison).  At 12,507 ft (3,812 m) above sea level, it also lays claim to being the highest navigable lake in the world.  That’s a tidbit I certainly forgot from 5th grade!

As is the case with most freshwater sources, Lake Titicaca had a significant historical purpose among the many groups that inhabited the Altiplano region of the Andes.

In fact, in 2000, a team found ruins of an underwater, Tiwanaku temple and village thought to be between 1,000 and 1,500 years old!

While we won’t be diving in the frigid waters,  we also didn’t come all this way just to say we saw a lake.

It’s great to check off the childhood whim of seeing Titicaca and the beautiful mountain peaks around it.  However, our real draw is the Uros Islands!

After queuing for the ferry, it’s another 20-minute ride to reach the islands.

It’s a gentle ride as the Uros Islands rest relatively close to the shoreline in a marshy region.  As you begin to enter the reeds, the first thing that stands out is just how tall and dense they grow.

It’s similar to what I’d imagine a tame version of the Florida Everglades would be.  Tame in that there are no large predators unless of course, you count the local Uru harvesting reeds with their sickles!

As we enter the islands, it’s almost shocking to see that one particular island actually has a small soccer/futbol pitch on it!  Seems no matter where you are, people will find a way to play the most popular sport on Earth!

Once you reach the community, you’ll quickly notice that most islands contain a small watchtower on them, with a larger tower being near the entrance to the village. These were originally designed as a means of identifying threats. In the event something was seen, the islands could be unmounted and pushed out to the lake to help remain safe.

Now, most of them seem to be a colorful means of expression as each island seems to have its own unique tower design!

As we tie up on our destination island, you’re greeted by the entire island’s population. For small islands, it looks like roughly 3-4 homes and for the larger, there can be up to 10 households!

When you take your first step onto the islands, it’s almost surreal as the “ground” gives way by a few inches with each step.  The only thing I can liken it to is the feeling if you were to step on a loose hay bale.  The second thing you’ll notice is that there is a very distinct scent in the air.  Nothing terribly off-putting, but quite similar to seaweed. So in the event you somehow forget, you have a constant reminder that you are on an island made from dying plants!

We quickly learn that the entire group on our island is multiple generations of one family – 4 to be exact!

As with any cultural destination, why read about how the people live when you can be shown!?  Our host family was kind enough to oblige us with a demonstration of their history, lifestyle, and how they build/maintain their islands.  Oh, and don’t worry, like any welcoming family, they made sure to involve the group and make the whole experience interactive!

After listening for 10-15 minutes, we quickly realize just how hot it’s become with the lack of any tree or cloud cover!  Living in Colorado, we’re used to clear, sunny days at altitude but even this caught Darcey and me by surprise!  Then again this is over twice as high! Well, at least we know why just about every local dons a hat and long garments…lesson learned!

Afterward, each of us is shown what the insides of the huts look like.  All your basic bedroom amenities are present from clothes hooks to beds.  What we didn’t fully expect is that some of the huts have solar panel attachments and even television! Sure beats a boat ride into Puno if you want to catch a match!

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As part of the visit, we’re offered the opportunity to wear some of the local clothing for a photo op.  While definitely part of the tourist trap, as they say, “when in Rome!”  After all, a small sol tip (5 sol ~ $1.50 at time of writing) isn’t too much to part with for that authentic photo!

As with any major tourist attraction, there’s also the opportunity to buy local handicrafts – from trinkets to blankets and tapestries.  While unique in terms of a souvenir, unfortunately, none of the items match any décor in our house, so we passed on this one.  Plus, we had already purchased our local painting back in Cusco a few days earlier.

Before you depart there’s one last touristy endeavor – a short cruise in one of their reed boats.  These boats are remarkably constructed and the one we were offered was even equipped with an upper deck!

Again, we’re in a tourist attraction, so this ride comes with an additional cost of about $10 a person.  Not a big deal, but just something to keep in mind if budgets are tight!

While this isn’t something that will give you any greater appreciation for the site, it’s still an enjoyable memory to say you boated around on Lake Titicaca in an Uru boat!  It does at least offer up the chance for a few more memorable photos!

While not a location that many will say is a “must-do” or a reason to visit Peru, we certainly wouldn’t tell anyone to avoid it if they’re going to be down in the Puno region.  It would certainly be an experience to boat further out into the lake and see more of what it has to offer (there are some luxurious resorts on some of the more distant islands on the lake), but I can’t imagine it’s much different from saying you boated on one of the great lakes in the US…just with mountains.

We’re certainly grateful that we had the chance to visit.

It’s remarkable to think that the 1,200 or so remaining Uru descendants still maintain the language and culture that has been passed down for centuries!  Think about it…there is literally nowhere else on Earth that you will be exposed to this! A remarkable thought that makes you really appreciate just how fragile and appreciative we should be of the people and places we share this planet with!

The floating islands of Lake Titicaca were one of those locations I’ve known of since around the 5th grade.  While it started as childish laughter due to the name, it became a memorable experience as an adult.

Peru continues to be a country of inspiration and beauty! 

Definitely a place that continues to surprise and delight!

Until next time…